We visit the magical seat of the Earls of Harewood, Harewood House, as it gears up for a massive year of Victorian-themed tourism
Yorkshire’s Harewood House is predicted to be a big seller this year and in 2018, thanks to its starring in ITV’s drama Victoria about the famous queen.
But it’s well worth a group visit even without its current Victoria-themed exhibitions, as a stunning stately home and a very accessible one: All of the state rooms are on the ground floor, and a tour of the house takes you around them in a pleasing circle.
Built in 1759, Harewood is nevertheless a contemporary family home, “not stuck in one period of history,” says Marketing Manager Alexis Guntrip.
Around the house
The people who own it, the Lascelles family, are known for their artistic taste, and their modern art collection keeps Harewood relevant and contemporary.
Nevertheless, the historical collection is breathtaking: Masterpieces by Reynolds, Gainsborough, Lawrence and El Greco; Sèvres china; Axminster carpets (look at the way an Axminster reflects the ceiling in the room it was made for); and the largest collection of Chippendale furniture in the world.
Almost every piece in the house is exquisite Chippendale, built as part of a whopping £10,000 commission. The state bed alone cost £400; tens of thousands in today’s money.
Thomas Chippendale was one of the 18th century’s set of fashionable fine craftsmen, and his work at Harewood was in conjunction with three others: John Carr for the architecture, Robert Adam for the interiors, and Capability Brown for the grounds. Together, they wove a perfectly harmonised and symbolism-rich work of art, and visitors can still see their combined genius in thousands of ways throughout Harewood.
Guided or flee-flow tours are available for groups, and guided tours are recommended, so your group can hear the fascinating stories behind various objects and see the architecture come to life: Pilasters in the library that open up to reveal handy 18th century map cupboards, for example.
Royal connections
The Lascelleses are related to royalty – they are the queen’s cousins, through the sixth Earl of Harewood’s marriage to George V’s only daughter Mary in 1922.
The rooms in the house devoted to Mary are among the most touching, reflecting her tastes – including for rather tacky little owl ornaments – and her royal status.
There is more than one royal connection. Harewood doubles for Buckingham and Kensington Palaces in the drama Victoria, but the real Victoria did visit Harewood a couple of times, as a young princess.
She wrote in her diary: “The park seems very fine; the view from the window is very pretty. We dined in the beautiful gallery with a party of nearly 300 in number.”
The ‘Victorian Harewood’ exhibition includes items that belonged to the queen, including a bracelet given to her by her lady-in-waiting Lady Charlotte Canning – whose famous watercolours are also on display as part of the exhibition – and wonderful sketches made by Victoria and Albert of their pets and family.
Included in the entry price for ‘Victorian Harewood’ is an exhibition of the costumes worn by ‘Victoria’, played by Jenna Coleman, and her ladies-in-waiting in the TV series, which add context and intrigue to the beautiful rooms. For the exhibition, Harewood is being portrayed through the eyes of three influential Victorian women: Victoria herself, Lady Canning, and Lady Louisa, the third Countess of Harewood.
Also at Harewood
Harewood is a large estate, and there’s much more to see than just the house.
Tours are available of the Capability Brown grounds, and the entry price includes a daily feeding of Humboldt penguins as well as access to the Bird Garden.
There’s also Harewood Castle, an intriguing 13th century ruin, but it’s a fair walk from the house. Lakeside walks are suitable for short or long walks, and off the Terrace is the beautiful Victorian parterre garden. Also close to the house is a lovely large secondhand bookshop.
Inside the house, the Below Stairs rooms not only show how the servants lived and worked, but host exhibitions: At present, ‘Empire Line’, a contemporary photography exhibition by Gavin Fernandes, is showing, as well as ‘Snapshot’, informal Victorian photography by Lady Florence Katherine Bridgeman, fifth Countess of Harewood.
Recently revamped, the Courtyard Café offers groups pre-booked hot and cold buffet lunches, and tea, coffee and snacks.
2017 at Harewood
Harewood’s events programme includes many pieces of modern art to see. Here are some of the treasures on show for the 2017 season:
The Haunted Doll’s House
By Steve Manthorp, a mixed-media piece based on the ghost story written by Victorian writer MR James – featuring a real ghost in the attic. Showing in the library throughout 2017.
The Plaster Bust Re-imagined
A selection of 21st century re-interpretations of the Victorian bust, by artist Kathy Dalwood. Instead of sculpting in clay or stone, the busts are made by direct casting from real things and found objects which are collaged together, moulded and cast in plaster.
Charlotte Canning: Artist and Traveller
These fine watercolours of Lady Canning are on display for the first time in 20 years. The exhibition concentrates on the relationship between Lady Canning and Queen Victoria until the end of June, when it will be refreshed to reflect her time in India.
Group tours
Group prices at Harewood are £12pp on weekdays, £13pp on weekends, and include the State Rooms, Below Stairs, Terrace Gallery, Gardens, Bird Garden and Grounds.
Group tours are available of groups of 15+ when pre-booked:
- Introductory House Tour (one hour): £5pp
- Full House Tour (two hours): £11pp
- Victorian Harewood Tour (one hour+): £8pp
- Tailor Made Tour (two hours+): £45pp
- Garden Tour (one hour): £5pp.
Contact the groups team on 0113 218 1017 or at groups@harewood.org. Visit harewood.org/groups